A Welsh Visitor 19/07/10-25/07/10

After a very warm week spent relaxing by the pool in Portugal I had planned to get out climbing most of this week. Unfortunately the weather dictated otherwise and with showers forecasted for most of the week Ieuan and I tried to do some things that weren't dependent on dry rock! After Ieuan arrived on Monday we did a great cycle on Tuesday taking in some good hills on a lovely circuit.

Wednesday say us out in the rain in East Lothian at a KTM Off-Road Motocross Day (http://www.adysmith.co.uk/) which was incredible, and whilst pretty knackering was definitely the most fun I have had for a while. We had a nice day recovering on Thursday with some good weather meaning we could have a play on the slackline, and watching the controversial and decisive Tour stage up the Col du Tourmalet.

On Friday we were back out at the KTM School tearing up the grass and thrashing two-stroke motorbikes which was again great fun, unfortunately I picked up a bit of a strain in my left wrist and the tendons have been very stiff so I will be resting it from climbing for a while, but hopefully should get out cycling a bit more.

With nicer weather again on Saturday we decided to head out wakeboarding at Lochearnhead which is the first time I have been this year, after only getting out once last year as well. It was a fantastic day and the water was very flat and warm enough for summer suits, I was super stoked to land a pop-shuvit and almost get a wake-to-wake 180 after such a time off but it was so much fun that it will definitely not be the last ride this summer!

Back to Cambusbarron 05/07/10

With nice weather at the start of the week before forecasted deterioration, I was keen to get out climbing before heading down to London for an overnight trip, then hopefully driving round the noth coast on the motorbike with Sarah if the weather permits, and finally spending a week in Portugal with most of my family. Greg, Sarah and I headed to Cambus' and I was psyched to get on Gobi Roof after having seen it last time. Negating the benefits of warming up I jumped straight on and got bomber gear at waist height before trying to rearrange my left foot whilst holding the crimp, this obviously didn't work and I sunk onto the gear.

Slightly disappointing, especially as I had less than a minute rest before getting the route on the ground up attempt, but pleased to have gotten a clean E2. The route seems to have a stiff reputation but it was probably not E2 if you are over 5'10", as there is only one moderately powerful move from good holds to more good holds with solid gear at your waist. Above the climbing eases but is still interesting with some sandy moves.

Sarah then did well to second Ramplin' and seemed to enjoy it too which was good. We then headed into the Inner Quarry for Greg to have a play on some of the gnarlier routes as a good finish to another good day.

Isle of Lewis Trip 27/06/10-04/07/10

I can't believe its July already, although my tan would disagree!

Over the past week I have been on holiday up on Lewis with Sarah, Greg and co which has been good fun. Unfortunately the weather wasn't always on our side and if it wasn't torrential rain then the winds were strong. We did have some nice weather though and the beaches and general scenery definitely, almost, made up for the rain. There was one upside to the rain in the form of HS1 cafe; which serve generous portions of excellent food, mostly topped with cream, sprinkles, custard, ice cream or all of the above in our case!

Greg and I made it out climbing on two occassions; the first to Dalbeg and the second to a very inspiring Mangersta. I don't know if I was tired or we weren't at the best venues for my grade but I wasn't overly impressed with the Lewisian Gneiss, again perhaps I was missing something. Greg had a good trip ticking the tricky looking Killer Fingers and I passed the day by taking photos of wales, sharks and ganets, fishing or doing easier routes.

A good holiday and a great place to have visited and seen, but I don't know if I will be going back anytime soon!

Highland Outcropping 22/06/10-25/06/10

Unfortunately plans of going to Reiff were foiled by a poor weather forecast so we decided to head up to Aviemore and base ourselves there for the week, aiming to follow any good weather patterns developing. After managing to cram everything into McGeachy's Micra we ended up at Creag Dubh on the way up. This was my first time at the crag and I had heard some stories about the boldness of the venue and was sligthly trepidatious about doing anything bold on lead. Greg led up the classic HVS of the crag Inbred which I found to be okay, but certainly not worthy of three stars, perhaps I was missing something. Having lost most of my psyche I spent a relaxed afternoon sunbathing and taking photos.

With rain forecast for most places in the afternoon we decided to head to the mostly overhanging Huntley's Cave after another session at Creag Dubh. Greg and I did L.M.F. which I thought was fantastic with good gear where you needed it and brilliant climbing, especially over the second roof. Again I didn't have much psyche and took more photos of Greg and Neil going boldy where...some people have gone before...before we headed to Huntley's Cave for an evening session. I was keen to get on some more E1's and Diagonal Direct looked like a good contender as I knew the middle was straightforward as I have climbed Diagonal before. The direct start was quite interesting with green, polished holds and plenty of midges to keep things entertaining before pulling into the corner and moving up onto a big ledge under the crux roof. After plugging the crack above with plenty of gear I managed to work out a sequence and pull onto the face and rockover to finishing jugs. The route was totally brilliant and I was pleased to get the onsight. With the midges exceeding tolerance levels we scarpered quick and headed back to the house.

With a solid forecast towards Aberdeen we decided to head up onto the Moray Firth coast and see if we could get onto some more sea cliffs. We ended up at Cummingston which was home to some sandy but great routes. Neil and Greg had a good day climbing the amospheric and picture picture-perfect Prow, whilst I warmed up before attempting my first E2 The Prophet. This didn't go as well as I had hoped and after getting boxed on the onsight fiddling in wires, a foothold blowing on the lichenous mantle on a ground up ascent, and plenty of brushing after resting on the gear I made it to the top. Not the best style, of ascent or during the ascent it has to be said, but the grade seems a lot less intimidating now and I was happy to get up it! After plenty more of Neil's adventurous driving (he has a special liking for roundabouts) we made it back to Aviemore after another good day.

We managed to get up reasonably early this morning and heading down towards Glen Clova as a "on the way home" venue. This was again my first time at this crag, and it is a really cool place with lots of inspiting lines. We were all quite tired but McGeachy strapped it on for Cinderella which was very impressive, but also quite haggaring to watch from only a few feet above him! After a glorious ascent in the basking sunshine of the three star Wandered living up to its suggested quality, I again took to sunbathing and taking photos.

After some stunning weather, and plenty of climbing and general hilarity I am looking forward to Sarah coming home and having some chillout time on the beaches of Lewis and Harris, and hopefully getting out on my new bike a bit more!

Cambusbarron In The Sunshine 21/06/10

With such fantastic weather I was itching to get out climbing somewhere, after much logistical worries Neil and I eventually headed up to the quarried Dolerite haven of Cambusbarron. After warming up on Easy Contract I jumped on Not Easy Contract and then on to a link of Malky The Alky and Another One Bites The Dust to give some brillaint climbing. I was mega psyched to tick my second and third E1's onsight and am really enjoying my climbing at the moment.

We then headed into the inner quarry, after Neil had kindly held my ropes, for Neil to work the moves on Both Ends Burning which had some fierce looking climbing, he managed to link it cleanly after working through the moves; now just the small task of doing it on lead! This summer is properly living up to the trend set by winter, today was 23C and the rock in most of the country is dry. So much to do, and a fair amount of time to do it in as well :)

Floor's Craig 18/06/10

With good weather forecast Ally, Greg, McGeachy, Ross and I headed up to one of the sea cliffs around Aberdeen for a day of atmospheric climbing. The crag has a great outlook and it's always fun climbing above the sea. Everyone had a good day with some impressive onsighting going on as usual.

Unfortunately no one could squeeze through Japs Eye Chimney, which had a very small hole to wriggle through. I was pleased to get my first E1 onsight - Blockbuster, which had some great climbing leading to the somewhat teetery crux at the top.

Another new venue worth going back to in the future.

Pass of Ballater 16/06/10

After a disappointing trip to Chamonix I was keen to make the most of the nice weather here so headed up to Craig an t'Seabhaig to meet up with Greg, McGeachy and Jonny. As the weather was nice I decided to head up on the motorbike and the A93 from Perth onwards provided an excellent start to the day! This theme continued throughout with some brilliant climbing on the sometimes polished granite keeping things interesting. I started the day with a nice ascent of Little Cenotaph which gets two stars before getting some photos of Greg on Peel's Wall.

I then got on the three star Black Custard and got to the last move on the onsight attempt before missing out a crucial foothold which meant my body was in the wrong position as I fought to get through the niche in the roof, a flailing slap to the finishing jug went as expected really and I ended up a good couple of metres nearer the ground. After a rest I got back on and managed to get the route ground up.

A good day at another new venue, pleased to be pushing my grade a bit and had fun getting some air miles! A slightly wet ride through the pass of Glenshee before the roads dried out gave a suiting finish to the fantastic day.