Tuesday, 31 March 2009

Craig a Barns 31.03.09

Making the most of my dimished uni timetable and the glorious sunshine I have been up at Dunkeld throughout the past week. Lots of Rath-ites getting in on the action as well with some solid red pointing (see blogs for details)! I have been working on the short routes on Sinners Wall and got redpoints on Six Fours-les Plage and Fear of the Dark after bolt to bolt attempts. I then moved on to Father Figure which has a bouldery start over a bulge to a good rest before trending slightly right on crimps and lay backs to the top. I worked the route bolt to bolt before trying to link it on top rope. After getting a sequence and linking it twice, all that remains is to send it! Looking forward to getting back on it and then some longer and harder routes soon.

Monday, 23 March 2009

Indicator Right Hand 23.03.09

I was up on the Ben today with Richard again. We made an early start after sleeping well in the car and were at Indicator Wall for 9;30am. A slight storm blew in throughout the day dumping a fair amount of snow, the light winds helped to lift the clouds briefly throughout the day aiding in navigation. The route was pretty thin with less than adequate gear which made for an exciting four pitches! With the bulges not being properly formed we were forced around them lowering the tech grade to 4. I was glad to summit and get back on terra firma but it was a great day nonetheless, Ben Nevis is such an incredible place to be in winter.

Wednesday, 18 March 2009

Earnsheugh 18.03.09

Back up at Earnsheugh today with Greg, Damo and Andy. Andy and I ventured onto Death Cap which was an excellent climb; the first pitch a long corner to a nice belay ledge before a short but exposed step onto the arete to finish, Mysterious Journey was next to be ticked with the last pitch again providing an excellent finish; a steep traverse on ledges and then a step up into a very thin crack to finish. We then tried Pterodactyl but after two attempts to gain the first belay ledge I was reversing the moves of the opening break when I watched my hands opening as I reversed the last moves; two cams in flared, loose cracks expectedly ripped but another cam in what looked bomber crack held initially before pinging out and spanking me onto the floor before tumbling me down the grass slopes below! Comically Andy then came to check if I was alright and tripped on the ropes, also sending himself down the grassy slopes towards the gushing seas! With a bruised bum and ego we went up Cloisters to finish. A rather lucky end to the day and somewhat humbling.

Friday, 13 March 2009

Earnsheugh 13.03.09

Today I was up at the Aberdonian sea cliffs with Greg and Damo in glorious sunshine. We did a couple of routes including Cloisters Direct which was a bit green at the bottom, Wierd Sister finishing up Cloisters and then Greg and Damo went to have a look at Prehistoric Monster but with darkness closing in we bailed out and vowed to come back next week.

Monday, 2 March 2009

Grooved Rib 02.03.09

Despite poor conditions recently ever the optimist I went into Coire an t'Sneachda today with Richard and headed up The Grooved Rib which proved to give some great climbing in a corner chimney system similair to The Seam. A nice easy day with some enjoyable climbing, good to be back out in the mountains.