Friday 18 December 2009

Brocken Gully Direct and Fluted Buttress Direct 18.12.2009


After hearing great reports from Greg, who was climbing yesterday, Pete and I drove up to Aviemore this morning and joined up with Greg to head into Coire an t'Sneachda. Everything is covered in hoar and there is ice/neve everywhere with the turf solidly refrozen. We climbed up Brocken Gully Direct which gave some good gully climbing on mainly banked out icy corners, followed by a mixed pitch, and then came down a very icy Goat Track to head back up Fluted Buttress Direct. This gave some good climbing; the first pitch was a gully, again mostly banked out, followed by two good mixed sections of steeper bulges on the the next pitch. Everything is so iced up that it meant finding gear very time consuming and often difficult, but the climbing was great with all the ice and neve around!

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