To avoid treacherous snow conditions in the North I headed over to Beinn Udlaidh after Greg was there yesterday and reported fat conditions. We left the house at 5am but there were still 9 people in front of us by the time we arrived at the farm gate around 7:45am! However we pelted it in to the coire and managed to overtake them all to be the first ones at the bottom of the classic Quartzvein Scoop! This provided a great climb with a great first pitch followed by an easier top pitch; I felt somewhat awakward climbing ice again but managed to get into the flow throughout the day. At the top we had a look around and saw a party on Junior's Jaunt which looked amazing and so headed over there. I led up the first pitch which felt very thin, it was pretty hacked up though making for generally easy, but scary, climbing. This was definitely the most mentally demanding winter pitch I have led, and I was pleased to manage to keep my head in the right place and get up it smoothly. Greg led the second pitch which was fatter but also steeper, brilliant fun to second! The route was fanstastic and I felt it deserved at least two stars, if not three with it's contrasting, sustained pitches and great situation. We were going to have a look at the Organ Pipes but with cramping calves and diminishing daylight we decided to leave it for another day. A great start to 2010!
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